Destinations // Everest Base Camp Trek Day 12: Everest Base Camp to Periche

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK DIARY DAY 12

EVEREST BASE CAMP TO PERICHE

KEY STATS

Starting Point: Everest Base Camp (3,440m/11,300ft)

Finishing Point: Periche (4,371m/14,340ft)

Distance: 17km/10.6mi

Trekking Time: 6.5 Hours

Accommodation: Pumori Lodge

Waking up at Everest Base Camp was a surreal experience. Not only did the evening mark the climax of our trek in the Everest Region, it was also one of the most nerve-wracking and sleepless nights we had on our adventure. The fear of avalanches burying us and the sounds of the glacier creaking below pretty much had me sleeping with one eye open and wishing for the clock to move forward as quickly as possible. It was an experience I will never forget and one that I can’t wait to do again – perhaps when I decided to make Base Camp home for a month to summit Everest.

Morning eventually arrived and while it was freezing, we hopped out of our sleeping bags, layered up and sat in the mess tent. Our chef prepared us an awesome breakfast and warmed us up with some instant coffee, both of which got the blood moving and prepared us for our trek from Everest Base Camp to Periche. And with that – we said our goodbyes and began making our way back through Everest Base Camp.

I’m pretty sure we were the only ones who dared to brave the cold this early as there wasn’t really another peep in sight. What we did see however is the amazing progress the expedition teams made to the surrounding camp sites. Over the next couple of days, the spring climbing season kicks into high-gear and the ambitious climbers begin arriving at Everest Base Camp in full force. It’s clear that there is a substantial amount of work that takes place to set-up Everest Base Camp and it is run like a military operation.

We made our way back to Trekkers Rock, said one last goodbye to Base Camp and continued along the route in the Khumbu Valley. The further along the path we ventured, the more that Mt. Everest came back into view. There was something very comforting about having her there. We made it all the way to Base Camp, woke up safe and sound and were heading onward with our journey. It felt as if Sagarmatha herself was accompanying us along our adventure.

We backtracked along the main Everest Base Camp trail to Gorakshep and picked up the gear we left for our overnight adventure. As we continued to head further down the valley we passed tons of trekkers, sherpas and yaks. Some were heading to Kala Patthar while others were pushing onward to Base Camp. Every so often we would pass people who looked like proper mountaineers. Whether they just did a damn good job looking the part or were actually heading to EBC to make a summit attempt, I’d give an encouraging smile as they made their push.

We retraced our footsteps back through the town of Lobuche where we took another cheeky break at the world’s highest bakery. Nothing like a tasty latte and dried pastry to refuel you along the trek. To be honest, after the freshly baked birthday cake we had at Base Camp, the pastry didn’t do the trick (but it certainly did on our way up).

Further down the Khumbu valley, the trail forks – if you take a right the path brings you Dzongla (where we stayed on our way up), if you veer left you are off to Dingboche and if you head onwards you are off to Periche. We went onward and made our into the valley towards the town of Periche. The trail itself wasn’t too difficult, but I remember being constantly pummeled by wind and dust storms the entire way down. We were leaving the higher altitudes behind, so mother nature was clearly trying to ensure we continued to have a challenging trek.

En route we came upon a stretch of trail that had a series of memorials honoring the lives of those that had passed away on Everest. The memorials were adorned with prayer flags and were all different sizes – some were just large piles of rocks, while others had plaques on them serving as gravestones.

One of the memorials that I was drawn to was that of Mountain Madness founder Scott Fisher. Scott was a regarded mountaineer. His accomplishments included being one of the first American’s to summit Lhotse, the 4th largest mountain at 8,516m, and one of the first American’s to summit K2, the second tallest mountain in the world at 8,611m, without supplemental oxygen. Scott lost his life in the much-documented 1996 Everest tragedy and was played by Jake Gyllenhaal in the 2015 blockbuster film – Everest.

The path continues through Periche Valley and follows along the Tsola River. To the right of the river valley is the massive Taboche (6,542m) and directly ahead is Ama Dablam (6,812m). We’ve seen both of these peaks a few times from various vantage points along our route – and now that we are in Periche (4,371m) we are now directly next to them.

Periche is known to be a big farming village that has transformed into a major trekking hub. A fair amount of its people are employed as trekking guides and Sherpas. There are also many tea houses here that serve as an important acclimatization stop for those making their way to Base Camp from this direction. You will find a basic hospital here operated by the Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) during the two climbing seasons – which often serves as an evacuation point for those who need to get down the mountain quickly.

Upon arrival in Periche, we checked into the Pumori Lodge – the last basic tea house of our trek. Once we get to the lower parts of the main Everest Base Camp Trek we go back to our luxury tea house. The hot showers, electric blankets and multi-course meals are very welcomed at this stage.

Until then, our tea house arrival routine would have to be the same. Check into tea house, drop off our gear in the room, use wet wipes to clean up head-to-toe, change into comfy clothes, plop ourselves into one of the seating enclaves of the communal rooms, have a hot drink and play cards until we bore ourselves to death. Imagine our surprise when we arrived in the communal room to find people sitting around a TV! I hadn’t seen one in almost a couple weeks and my eyes were glued the whole evening.

What was on? The blockbuster hit film Everest. It felt quite fitting that we just returned from an overnight at Base Camp and got to watch a film about Everest – a few kilometers from Mt. Everest herself. There was a steady stream of films that followed that evening. It was a nice way to spend the evening relaxing before heading to our ice cold room and zipping up in our sleeping bags.

WATCH THE ADVENTURE UNFOLD

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Check out the day as recorded by Stava. See the trails taken, overall elevation gains,  trekking times and how fast (or slow) we made it from Point A to Point B.

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40 comments

  • Thanks for sharing this. As much as this seems like an amazing thing to do, I see there is a lot that goes into it. I would love to push myself to do it, but no time soon. For now I’ll enjoy your adventures.

  • Wow, I have never dreamt in my wildest dreams to take an adventure like this! You are so brave to take this journey! Awesome seeing your photos, felt like I was there too. I have followed you on Insta and Twitter so I can see these great shots you take. Lorelle 🙂

  • Great article with beautiful pictures. It seems scary to wake up to the sounds of a possible avalanche.. wow! We did a 5-day Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu and the max altitude was 4600masl, so it seems pretty similar to the hike you did. We need to go to Nepal!

    • Yes you need to get to Nepal and yes the sounds were scary, but looking back – were all a part of what made the experience one to remember. Awesome job on your trek in Peru – also a very stunning part of the world. Happy Travels! Thanks for checking us out.

  • This is one of those experiences that would be so cool, but I think I’m too much of a wimp to try it! It makes it so real to see the photos of the rock memorials for the hikers that didn’t make it. Beautiful photos- I love the colored flags against the white of the snow.

    • A wimp? Don’t say that. ☺ It is a challenge for sure, but you would be surprised the mix of people experiencing the trails. Thanks for the kind words.

  • One day I will do this. As a hiker it has been a dream of mine. And the photos you have me posted has my internal flame burning even more. Fantastic post.

    • Thanks for the kind words. Throw some gasoline on that flame and get there. It was probably one of the best travel experiences I have ever had. It was physical and mentally challenging, offered some of the most amazing views in the world and left me wanting more.

  • Wow.. I basically categorize myself as a beginner when it comes to trekking but I’d love love to try an ascend to Mount Everest too. I don’t know if I’ll be able to, though as it seems pretty advance and I haven’t had any trekking adventures for a while now.. LOL.. It seems like an exciting adventure though. The views are pretty impressive. And that memorial spot you’ve come across sounds like a great site to see. Such a beautiful and meaningful way to remember those adventurous soul who lost their lives on Everest. Great post Dom! 🙂

    • I’d like to ascend Everest as well, but my trip to Base camp will have to suffice for now. ☺ Thanks for the kind words as always.

  • I think this might have just made my 2018 “Must Do” list. It looks and sounds amazing. Although I think I’ve got a way to to until I’m fit enough! I’m always surprised how amazing the food can be on these treks too. Great read!

    • Thanks for the kind words. Glad to see it made you 2018 list. We are already talking about going back and exploring more of the region on different trails. General fitness levels and mental preparedness is all you need to tackle this one. Happy Travels.

  • I really admire people like you. This seems fantastic, but I know it’s not for everybody. For now I can only dream to do hike like this one. Your photos are amazing!

    • Appreciate the kind words. Something to think about – if you like trekking and are interested in seeing the region there are a lot of trekking options. Some less difficult than others – which means you can have the same experience but one that is tailored to you. Happy New Year.

  • My husband wants to do this trip with our boys in about 12 years. It looks stunning but definitely challenging. I love that television was such a treat.

    • That’s plenty of time to plan a trip. ☺ Your boys will be very lucky to have had this experience. You don’t come here and not reflect on you and your place in the world as you stand next to the highest mountain. Cool parent award goes to you guys.

  • It takes a lot to commit to strenuous travel like this. While I love the outdoors, and have enjoyed easy hikes in the middle of nature, demanding adventures like the Everest Base Camp Trek are best suited for the brave hearted 🙂 Kudos to you!

    • I think you would be surprised how your body handles the altitude and trek when such beauty surrounds you. It needs to be seen in person – whether you trek or not. Hop on the chopper from Kathmandu. Did someone say day trip? ☺

  • What a gorgeous trip and an exceptional adventure! I am fond of trekking and I have yet to discover the HImalayas. All these memorials are there to remind us that the mountains are dangerous, we are so small and fragile in this environment! Your pictures are all beautiful, the sky is so blue up there!! I should watch the everest movie again someday

    • Thanks for the kind words Julien. If you love trekking, then this adventure is one for the books, for sure. It blew me away every single day and is still one of my all time favorite trips. The memorials were indeed a reminder to reflect. Let me know when you start making your Himalayan trip a reality.

  • Simply mesmerizing! A trek to Everest Base Camp and the Lower Himalayas has always been in our bucket list. It is a bit difficult for us to undertake such an adventure, considering that the weak power of the Philippine peso, the expenses, and some other factors. But we are definitely working on it, and your post inspired us to work harder to make this dream come true.

    • Thanks for the kind words – happy that I got to share the beauty of this corner of the world with you. If you do get the opportunity to get to Nepal, I am certain that you will enjoy exploring this Himalayan Region. Happy Travels!

  • The scenery is stunning! I love the photo of you in front of the Trekkers Rock. That needs to be come your next holiday photo card. 🙂 I so enjoyed following your journey, and seeing all the images from this beautiful part of the world.

    • Haha a holiday photo card? Never done one before – I love that idea. Thanks for the kind words – appreciate you following the journey along. I can’t wait for the next adventure.

  • What a commitment to trek Nepal! Amazing pictures, only obtained from a strenuous journey. 😉 Congrats! The flag monument is always my favorite pic of Nepal.

    • Thanks for the kind words Melody. Lugging the camera gear around is always a slight pain, but pays off as the journey is captured. ☺

  • This is such a valuable article to me. So I’ve always been curious about doing this, and it’s “sort of” been something I’ve considered looking into. I’m perhaps not quite this ambitious, but I can dream. Your pictures are absolutely stunning. There is nothing like the mountains. I didn’t realize there were civilized things like a tea house up there. Super cool. Great post.

    • Glad you found it helpful Jessica. If you do decide to go, I am certain that you will have a great time. The people are amazing and Mother Nature is at her best here. Keep me posted if you decide to go ahead.

  • What an experience! Not sure if I can ever trek in such tough terrain as well as weather. Reading your everest base camp stories I can feel the adventure as if I am already a part of it. The terrain of Himalayas is really one of a kind in the entire world, and the higher you go, the tougher it gets. Congratulations on the trek!!

    • Thanks Neha. It was indeed an experience and one I hope to experience again in the future. The terrain and the weather disappear with the beauty of the mountains. 🙂 Happy Travels!

  • Wow, what an incredible journey to the Everest Base Camp. The Worlds highest bakery sounds quite interesting, wish I could visit this place. I have always heard about people visiting EBC but never got to see how the journey is. Thanks for sharing such a detailed post on your experience.

  • So the trek back from the Everest Base Camp begins. This was quiet a saga and a great experience. It must have been a great sense of achievement when you reached the base camp. I loved the fact that the Mt. Everest was in sight for a long time on your return journey to Periche.

  • Bookmarking this post as I always dreamed about hiking to the Everest base camp. I had a fun time reading this as I feel I was there with you hiking through the scenic trails.

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